Biography Computer Repairing Book Pdf


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PDF Drive is your search engine for PDF files. As of today we have 78,, eBooks for you to download for free. No annoying ads, no download limits, enjoy . Computer Locks Up After Installing or . longest running, most popular, and most comprehensive PC hardware book in the world, PDF versions of the 10th, 11th, 12th, 13th, and 14th editions of Upgrading and Repairing PCs are included . May 24, Apply the knowledge to repair/maintain a computer. 2. Computer computer i.e. the components that can be seen and touched. Examples of.

Computer Repairing Book Pdf

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Description: This book is meant as a serious and more-or-less thorough text for an introductory college or graduate course in computer networks, carefully. the book. “Computer Organization and Design” () by David A. Patterson and John L. Hennessy . (fix the barn, sheep shearing, feed the Acknowledgement: The structure and several of the good examples are derived from the book. The Ultimate Computer Repair Guide. Components That Make Up Your Computer. A computer is composed of hardware, not to be confused with software.

Is there information documented right on the drive itself?

What kind of power connector does it use? Are there jumper settings on the drive? What for? Are any drives connected together or do they all have their own cable? Does it matter which cable I hook up when I reassemble? What are some of the things I know about this particular type of drive? When removing wires or cables, what are the cables for? Which connectors are actually being used and what could the other ones be for? Are they following the pin-1 rule?

Is pin-1 actually designated on the device the cable is attached to? Is it designated in more than one way? Am I still taking proper ESD precautions and is my antistatic strap still hooked up?

Look at the motherboard again when there's not so much in the way. Can you point out the CPU? Is there a math coprocessor? Where is it? How many pins on the memory module? How many memory slots are thee for each bank of system memory? Are there any jumpers on the motherboard? Is there any information silk- screened on the board itself? This is just an example of the questions you should be asking yourself. Try to come up with lots more. Even if you are not prepared to actually take your computer apart at this time, just take the cover off and ask yourself these questions as you visualize the various steps involved.

Remember, not all questions can be answered by a single resource. Look in your notes, check out your manuals and resource material, ask questions. Remember, if you can feel a static shock its probably close to volts. Some ICs can be affected by as little as 30 volts. Always use an antistatic wrist strap. Keep a supply of antistatic bags to place components in as they are removed. Leaving the computer plugged in is a recommended procedure.

However, make sure it's switched off and remember that the cable going to the remote switch on the front of the case carries AC current at house voltage. Also, ATX motherboards have power to them all the time, even when the switch is off. Before beginning to remove a power supply or an ATX motherboard, always make sure your computer is unplugged. Before Beginning You want to make sure you have what you need.

Your wrist strap is attached to the computer, you don't want to have to run to the other side of the room or to another room to get something.

Forget about the strap and your computer may follow you. Have a pen and paper ready. Documentation is real important. After you've changed a few jumpers or removed or replaced a few cables and cards, you probably will have to put some back the way they were. If you have documentation, putting things back together can be a simple reverse process. This is true of software troubleshooting as well. Make sure you have the tools you need and they're all close by and handy.

Be sure to have a container to keep the screws in so you have them when you want to put things back together. Make sure you have the resource material, drivers or software that you may need. If possible, enter the CMOS setup and record the information available. At least record the floppy and hard drive configuration and any settings that may be different from the default. You want to be careful not to remove the battery and lose these settings, but stuff happens.

Disassembly is major surgery, do a full backup of the system. Programs that you have the original disks for can always be replaced, but any upgrades for those programs and any programs that have been downloaded from the Internet may or may not still be available. Bookmarks, e-mail addresses, phone and fax numbers, dial-up connections, DNS settings and networking protocols can be a real pain to replace.

Even the best technicians cannot guarantee your data, so back it up. Close all programs, shut down Windows, and turn off your computer. Then remove the cables from the back of the case. One other thing: you have to use a little common sense.

Don't necessarily follow this information to the letter, it's only meant to be a guide. If you think it would be easier to remove some expansion cards before removing the drive bay, then do it. If you can better access the data cables after the drive is out, then do it that way. I think you get the point. Removing the Cover The standard way of removing tower cases used to be to undo screws on the back of the case, slide the cover back about an inch and lift it off.

Manufacturers are beginning to come up with trickier and more intricate methods of assembling these cases all the time. If there is no manual, then a little time taken for careful inspection may be in order. Here are some things to remember: Don't Force Anything. If it has to be forced, it will probably break. If there are no screws on the back of the case for the cover, check the plastic faceplate on the front.

Some pry off to reveal screws or release levers remember, careful inspection. If everything on the front has its own bezel around it including the LEDs then maybe the plastic front pops off or maybe the case slides off the front.

If you notice a separation between the sides and the top, then they must come off separately. My favorite ATX case allows you to remove two screws from the back, then slide the side panel to the rear an inch and remove it. The other side removes the same way.

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It's a good, solid, well built case. Make sure any screws removed are for the cover. You don't want to unscrew the power supply by accident and have it fall inside your computer. That's a bad thing. After the case is removed, place it in a safe place, where it won't get knocked of a table, kicked or stepped on and bent.

Removing Adapter Cards Again, documentation is very important. Yes, that bit ISA card will probably work in any bit ISA slot, but there may be a reason it's in that particular one. Document the type of card and which slot it comes from. Check the card for any cables or wires that might be attached and decide if it would be easier to remove them before or after you remove the card.

Undo the screw that holds the card in place. Grab the card by its edges, front and back, and gently rock it lengthwise to release it. Do not wiggle it side to side as you can break the card, the slot, or the solder. Sometimes it helps to grasp the inside corner of the card with one hand and place a finger from the other hand under the associated port out the back of the computer to pry up the one end of the card. Once the card is removed, you may want to record any jumper settings you see, just in case one is accidentally dislodged.

Try to store the card in an antistatic bag. If you don't plan on replacing the card then a cover should be installed over the slot opening. Removing Drives Removing drives is not that difficult. They usually have a power connector and a data cable attached from the device to a controller card or a connector on the motherboard. CD-ROMs may have an analog cable connected to the sound card.

The power will be attached using one of two connectors, a large Molex connector or a smaller Berg connector for the floppy drive. The Molex connector may need to be wiggled slightly from side to side while applying gentle pressure outwards. The Berg connector may just pull straight out or it may have a small tab that has to be lifted with a tiny flat screwdriver. The data cables need to be documented.

Remember the pin one rule. Know where each one goes before you pull it out and record its orientation which side is the stripe on, where is pin 1?

Pull data cables gently and carefully. In other words, don't yank them off, and pull level and in the direction of the pins.

Now you need to do a little more inspection, can the entire drive bay be removed? Does that particular drive come out the back of the bay or does it slide out the front before the bay is removed.

If a bay is removable, you may have to remove some screws or unclip a lever then slide the bay back and off. If the bay is not removable, there should be access ports on the other side of the case that allow for access to those screws there should be, I've seen some that you just about have to remove the motherboard to access these screws. Now you can remove the screws and slide the drive out the back of the bay. If the drive slides out the front of the case, then remove the screws and gently slide it forward.

Removing the Memory Modules Memory modules are one of the chips that can be damaged by as little as 30 volts. Be careful of ESD and handle them only by the edges. It should now lift out. Put each SIMM in its own protective bag. Push the tabs down and away from the socket. The DIMM should lift slightly. With all laptops, you will start the disassembling by flipping the laptop over to its bottom side.

Removing the battery is the first thing you will do. Now you will start with removing all the screws. You will start at the rear of the laptop wheremost batteries are located most, not all…. Start right in the battery bay and remove all the screwsinside it. Here you will find smaller screws usually 2 to 8 of them, and typically they are silver orblack in color — usually being silver. Also in some battery bays you will have keyboard securingscrews, these will be removed also at this time.

If you like, you can save the screws in one big pile,or you can separate them by size. If your specific battery is not located at the rear ofthe laptop, you still will remove it, though it will probably not have any screws in its empty bay ifthere are any, remove all of them. Next you will remove all of the screws at the rear corners of the laptop. Typically they will use 1to 3 on each side. These will be the longest screws used on your laptop, the far corner screws will bethe longest — sometimes being thicker too, then, the ones further inward will usually be a little shorter.

Look for any screws at the Hinge Cap area, as some laptops will use 1 or 2per hinge cap to secure the cap to the base, remove them. While still at the back side of the laptop,look for any securing riser screws.

Riser screws are found in areas like the VGA Serial Port or aPrinter Port, look on each side of that port, there will sometimes be riser screws. Remove them usingneedle nosed pliers. Other extension ports on the rear and sides of the laptop will have riser screwsthat need removing and some will be removed with a micro sized flat head screwdriver. Some ofthese riser screws can be left in and still allow for complete removal of all parts, but if you are notsure, you should remove them.

You can now remove any case covers that exist on the laptop in front of you. The photo on theprevious page shows 1 main cover that will cover all accessible components, some laptops use justone, and some will separate them and use 2 to 4 separate covers. Remove all of them regardless.

Note that some laptops will use extra long or extra short screws to secure the covers and if you thinkyou will have trouble remembering the placement of these upon reassembling, then place the screwsfor each separate cover inside that cover and set the covers aside with their screws on them. Afterremoving these covers, you will remove the components inside their bays. These will include the hard drive, the Wireless card, RAM, and similar.

A caddie will wrap the drive or willcover one side of the drive then will be secured with small thick screws usually 2 to 4. Use the installed pull tab on the hard drive toeither slide or pull the hard drive away from the laptop.

Some hard drives will be secured to thelaptop and some will not.

Once the hard drive is removed, look in the empty hard drive bay for anyscrews there. Remove any screws in that bay. Next part to remove is any Wi-Fi Card and antenna wires. You will typically find the Wirelesscard on the bottom side of the laptop. Most models will allow you to leave this card installed andwill not hinder the disassembly process. The Wi-Fi antenna cables are what you want to remove…You will disconnect the 2 or more antenna wires and un-route them from the case track.

Thesewires will typically run up to the upper-side of the motherboard and you need to allow them to bepulled away from the upper side by loosening them and untracking them on the underside.

Remove thecard also if needed. Continue on removing the bottom base screws, all along the front of the laptop still on the bottomside , usually there are 4 to 6 in the front, sometimes a sticker or rubber plug is hiding the screw, youwill remove any blocking tab and remove the screw.

Since I mentioned these imprinted icons, I will now elaborate on them and their use. If you lookclosely at the bottom of the laptop, you will see Icons near some of the screw holes. Typically theRAM has an Icon, the Wi-Fi will also have an icon, the hard drive will have an Icon, the keyboardscrew locations will have an icon, and the cd drive locking hole will have an icon.

It is also commonfor a Screw length guide to be located somewhere on the underside of the laptop, either imprinteddirectly into the plastic, or printed onto a sticker. Once you have removed the screw that secures the optical drive in place you will need to slide it out and set it aside. To do this, you can usually just grab the edge of the drives faceplate and gentlypull it outward. Some laptops will not be so easy and you will need a plastic pry tool to pull itoutward use a guitar pick.

Once the drive is removed, you will look for any screws on the empty bay that would secure thelower base to the upper palm rest… some laptops will use 2 to 4 screws here. Another thing to check while still on the bottom side of the laptop is whether the Fan and Heatsink assembly needs to be removed prior to motherboard removal. And one hidden in theWi-Fi bay, both screws are silver in color and need to be removed. Take a minute to look for anyhidden accessible screws on the underside of the laptop, removing them all, then double check all theopen bays on the underside for remaining screws, like the hard drive bay where it is common to place1 to 4 screws there.

So start the upper half disassembly by removing the hingecaps using a micro size flat head screwdriver or using a plastic pry tool recommended. The photo above showsyou where the hidden 2 screws are on the Gateway Ma3 and Ma7 that secure the keyboard to thebase. Removing this strip can sometimes be a little tricky, Dell makes it easier by addinga pry access area on the right side of the strip, you stick your pry tool in it and pull upward to unsnapthe strip of plastic.

Most of these strips will be snapped on and you will need to pull outward whileslightly pulling up and down on the area you are unsnapping to release the tab locks.

Motherboard repairing tips pdf

Note that some laptops like the Toshibaalso have a thin plastic snap strip just above the keyboard that need removing prior to removing hingecaps or keyboard. To remove these, ensure all bottom side screws are removed, then, use a plastic pry tool or amicro flat head screwdriver. Other models like the Compaq Presario will have a rectangular piece that completely surroundsthe keyboard, and in order to remove the keyboard, you will need to unsnap this part and set aside.

You must be very careful when removing or unsnapping any part on the palm rest area because itcould have wires, ribbon cables connected to it and they are extremely fragile.

This Presario has aribbon cable on the rectangular piece discussed here and it is located on the upper bar of the piece,which travels under the keyboard and plugs into the motherboard. Then you can now also remove the rectangular keyboard frame and set aside. The Above Photo shows the most common keyboard ribbon cable motherboard connectionlocking tab port. Use your Pry tool to gently pull the left and right locking tabs upward away from theport.

You will now be able to slide the cable out. Keyboards will sometimes have securing screws at the top and will need to be removed. These are smaller screws than what you will find on the underside of the laptop. Some laptops willuse locking tabs instead of screws and the photo shows these tabs slide up and down to lock andunlock the keyboard in place. Another way some manufacturers secure the keyboard is by using springloaded tabs that protrude from above the keyboard and will extend over the keyboards upper tab.

Torelease the keyboard from these you will need a plastic pry tool or a micro size flat head screwdriverto depress the spring loaded tabs usually 4 of them and simultaneously use a secondary pry tool topull the keyboard upward and away from the spring loaded tab continuing to release all 4 tabs, thenlifting the top of the keyboard upward and away.

You need to pay attention here… When removing the media strip above the keyboard, youMUST be careful not to pull any cables in the process. I will give you an example. This HP DV laptops media strip has 2 fragile black ribbon cables attached to it and a fragilespeaker plug wire, these need to be disconnected before you can remove the part, and if you pull toaggressively you will damage the cables. With these parts removed, you will first look for any screws in the empty keyboard bay on thepalm rest.

There are typically 1 to 6 screws here, also look everywhere else on the upper half forscrews and remove all. The screen will get removed now as well. You will unplug all wires orcables coming out of the screen. These will include the display cable, the Wi-Fi antenna wires, theWebcam cable, Microphone cable and any other that might be there.

The Wi-Fi cables will also beplaced in a track along the upper palm rest and you will un-track these and pull the ends through fromthe bottom side. Unscrew the display hinges to release the screen from the lower half of the laptopand it should now pull away freely.

Note that some laptops will attach the display cable differentlythe most common type of cable plug is one that pulls straight upward to release the cable, yet, othertypes will need to be pried outward from their casing port. You will need to determine yours andslowly unplug the cable. If it gives any resistance, you should double check to ensure you areremoving it correctly. The ones that pull outward will always have a pulling plastic tab attached tothem to help you easily pull it apart.

With the screen hopefully removed now, you will again lookover the entire palm rest for any remaining screws. Let me also say here that on models such as the HP dv you will have to remove the 2 Riserscrews that are located on the bottom side and exactly next to the Wireless card port, these need to be removed before the palm rest can be removed. So look for strangely placed screw locations on boththe bottom and top before removing the palm rest. The typicaltouchpad ribbon cable connection port will be the slide locking tab type, and you will gently slideboth left and right sides of the locking tab upward to release the cable.

Look around the exposed areas of the palm rest and carefully unplug any cables that you can see. Also untrack any remaining cables or wires away from the palm rest. You should now be ready toremove the palm rest from the lower base. Most all palm rests will be snapped down to the base and to remove the palm rest you will needto unsnap all the tabs.

To do this, you will use a guitar pick or similar plastic pry tool, starting at acorner and making your way around the entire palm rest to unsnap all the locking tabs.

You shouldnow be able to pull the palm rest away from the bottom base of the laptop. You will be left with thebottom base and motherboard. Some Sony Vaio and Toshiba laptops have reversed this process and you will be removing thebottom base first, as the motherboard is attached to the palm rest. You should now have the bottom base and motherboard left over to disassemble, or the oppositeand you have the palm rest and motherboard left, this process will be the same for either, so I willjust refer to the bottom base method and you can use that in the same fashion to remove themotherboard from palm rest.

Now, with the bottom base in front of you, you will disconnect any remaining wires or cables thathinder the removal of the motherboard. You can remove any screws securing the motherboard to thebase.

These screws will usually be marked on the motherboard with either a number or a symbol. Ifnot, you can use a marker to draw an x over the hole to remind yourself that it needs to have asecuring screw upon reassembly of the laptop. Some laptops will have mini boards or daughter boards attached to them that will also need to beremoved or detached from the motherboard to complete the removal process. Once you think you have removed all the retaining screws, you can attempt to remove themotherboard from the base.

Start this process by slightly lifting up on any given corner. I will usuallystart near the area opposite from the onboard headphone jack port or volume knob. I pull upwardslightly then outward making sure to pull any components like the audio out ports, or the VGA or printer port away from the case shell as to not damage any parts when removing the motherboard. Be careful here as you candamage the ports or plugs by pulling to far on the motherboard.

The Motherboard should lift right out, if it does not, do not panichere, simply go through the top and bottom again and pinpoint the location that it is stuck in and locatethe retaining screw.

You should be able to determine where the location is that is keeping themotherboard from removal just by lifting up on the board and finding the area that is still stuck to thebase.

Finally, remove the motherboard and set aside, you are done with the removal, you can removethe fan and heat sink assembly now if still attached. Chapter 5Laptop Screen Disassembly Instructions Most screens can be disassembled without removing them from the bottom base, but some modelswill not allow removal of the front bezel without first removing the screen away from the base. A lot of the newer laptops will have fewer screws used and more snaps.

They will also useflat — hidden screw covers that are thick sticker tab covers and not the typical rubber shoe screwcover. Use a razor blade or extremely thin plastic tool to pry the screw covers away from the bezelmaking sure not to scratch the bezel or not to ruin the screw cover. Once all the screws are removed, 2 to 8 , you can remove the front bezel from the rear lid. This does not just lift right off now… it will be snapped onto the rear panel and you will need toun-snap all the locking tabs all the way around the screen.

You will start this process using a guitar pick or similar tool and start at the upper right corner ofthe screen.

Wedge the pick between the bezel and the rear panel and pry towards the front — pryingaway from each other, you will eventually unsnap the nearest snapping tab then continue around thelid. I have found it easier if you slightly bend the area you are unsnapping inward toward the center ofthe screen and the locking panel tab will release easier. When you get to the bottom of the screen front bezel it can sometimes be tricky to remove thisarea. This area will sometimes also have double sided tape securing the 2 pieces front and back together, and you will need to pull on the bottom bezel piece while lifting in an upward motion torelease the piece.

The way I do it is I will loosen the top of the bezel, then, I will go down each side. Take a look at the hinge area, some laptops are built so that the front bezelcurves around and under the hinge, so if you are removing the bezel without first removing the screenand hinges, you will have to bend the bezel outward and then upward to pull it away from the hinges.

It is a bit tricky but with practice it gets easy. Also note that certainmodels like DELL will have a hinge extension piece that extends into the hinge cover. So if you areremoving the bezel without first removing the screen away from the laptop, you will need to pull thisextension piece out of the hinge area, do this carefully but you will be able to with some patience…Hopefully you have removed the front bezel, I will now move on.

You should have the screen in front of you, the hinges and hinge rails should still be connected. You will first want to remove the retaining screws that secure the screen side rails to the screen. These side rails are almost always directly connected to the hinges.

Typically there are 2 to 4 screwson both sides of the screen, magnetize your Micro sized Phillips head screwdriver and remove allscrews on both sides of the screen, set aside. Some hinge rails will also have screws at the top that you will be removing and on the bottom youwill remove to allow the screen to be removed.

I will typically leave the bottom screws — securingthe hinge to the lid — unscrewed, and I will pull the screen away from the rear lid the only tricky partdoing it this way is the bottom — side rail screw, it can be difficult to remove this one withoutloosening or removing the bottom hinge screws. If able to, unplug the display cable wire set thatruns to the power inverter. Grab the top center of the Display Screen and pull it forward to lie it flat face down in front ofthe lid.

Note that this screen will rest on the palm rest if you are doing this without removing thescreen from the laptop bottom base… You have the screen face down so that you can detach the display cable from the rear side of thescreen.

All Display cables will have a piece of Pull Tab Tape attached to them. Some display cables will also have a rectangularmetal wire pull tab with a blue, white or black plastic pull tab attached. You will do the same withthese and grab the end tab pulling it downward to release the display cable from the plug port. Some cables will also have locking tabs on the left and right side.

To release the cable, you willneed to depress both the left and right sides simultaneously while pulling the cable flat away notupward… Assuming you already unplugged the power inverter, set the screen aside and you will havecompleted the screen disassembly.

Any remaining parts will stay in place. Some screens will also have secondary horizontal support rails, remember their position whenreassembling and do not forget to reinstall them. Both are still consideredLCD Screens because they are. The Image to the screen is Liquid Crystal Display; it is only thelighting that will change for these 2 types.

TheCCFL bulb is a thin glass tube with a protruding metal pliable rod on either side. Wires are solderedto both ends of the bulb then attach to a plug that will plug into the power inverter… You will need tosolder the wires to the ends if you ever need to order a replacement bulb. You can however usuallyfind replacement bulbs that come prewired with plugs also attached. You get the same size bulb asyour screen specs specify. When disassembling the screen, you will start by removing the power inverter if it is attached.

You will notice that all screens are framed with a thin metal frame. This helps to hold all the screenparts together it also helps by framing the front screen glass panel in and protects the glass edges fromharm. You are going to use a Razor Blade here to help separate this metal frame from the rest of thescreen.

This frame wraps from the front of the screen panel to the top of the panels edges all the wayaround the screen. Most screens will have 1 or several pieces of tape that cover the frames edge.

Youneed to run the razor blade edge between the seam of the screen frame and the aluminum bulb backingplate.

To do this you will flip the screen to its back side and start at the top of the screen, running therazor from right to left. Be very careful not to cut the LCD bulb wires or scratch any of the screenpanels. The sides of the screen will usually have securing tape that you need to either peel away orcarefully cut to separate the front metal frame. Once you have cleared any securing tape, you will now be unsnapping the metal frame away fromthe screen panel. You will need a Plastic Pry Tool assist you in removing the frame.

The best toolwould a guitar pick. You need to start at the top. It is imperative that you do start at the top of thescreen when removing the frame because you are not completely removing the frame you can, but itis not needed to change a bulb.

You will wedge the pick in between the seam of the frame and screen panel top side. Slightly pryupward near one of the imprinted tabs on the frame and push outward away from the front of thescreens glass panel. Do not force this frame away or you might crack the screen.

Go Slow, HavePatience and you will easily be able to separate this frame… Slide the pick back and forth from theright side end of the frame to the left end side. You will now see an aluminum bulb guard on the rear upper side of the screen. This cansometimes have a micro sized screw on each side so look real close for one and remove it.

Now,right where the screw you just removed was, flip the screen to the side and parallel with the bulbguard screw will be a screw on the side of the screen again it will be a micro sized screw and willneed to be removed, the same goes for the opposite side of the screen, then again there might be asecond screw on the side of the screen towards the bottom of the side.

Some will have these andsome will not.

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The object now is to pull this metal bulb tray up and away from the screen to swap out the bulb. In the above photo, the red arrow shows the metal bulb tray and the blue arrow shows you will besliding it outward to remove, after you free the LCD wires. Remove any tape that is securing the LCD bulb plug wires to the screen bottom side usually apiece of thin yellow tape. You should now see a white tab that the wires track through.

One wire is short the other long. The long wire willbe stuck to the thin horizontal plastic strip that runs along the top front of the screen, you simply willpull on the bulb wire to release it from the track along the front; it should peel right off.

You will use a fingernail or a plastic pry tool to push the metal bulb tray upward, start on oneside then slightly slide it a little bit, then go to the opposite side and slightly lift it, alternating until itis free from the screen. Be very careful when doing this otherwise the bulb will break though it isalready broke which is why you are changing it.

Once you have the metal bulb guard free, set thescreen aside. The bulb guard will have the bulb still inside its tray, there is actually a smaller metaltray inside the large metal tray, you can go ahead and separate these trays from one another now. Lookat both ends of the LCD bulb… this is typically where a bulb failure will occur at either end.

Eitherthe wire will overheat and will break, or it will deteriorate the wire to a very fragile state so that ifyou were to wiggle it slightly it would snap and break.

Look at the very ends of the bulb too, a faultybulb usually shows a blackish color at the end or both ends… this is due to internal bulb heat…which is why laptops can have color wash-outs pinks, oranges, reds to where the whole view of thescreen when illuminated has a pastel transparent colored tint to it, the tint can change colors as well,and you can sometimes hear a faint buzzing noise from the bulb.

Flickering of the light on and off isanother signal that the bulb is failing. Once again, look at the bulb ends you should have only the smaller metal bulb guard and the bulbin front of you , there are white rubber caps on each side covering the LCD bulb power posts.

You do not want tolose these caps… they are not glued on, they only slide on, and can easily fall off, so be verycautious. Notice here the placement of the bulb wires at both ends, notice that they do notprotrude straight out the back end of the bulb?

So, when replacing the bulb, you will make sure the ends are properly recapped with the whitegrounding rubber caps and that the wires are placed facing the correct direction for reassembly. If youneed to, take photos while you work to be able to remember assembly and reverse process.

The Power inverter is the only part left for screen repairing. You can only do so much to repair the inverter if failure occurs. It is the part with thecopper wire wrapped all around it… a longrectangular shaped component with legs on both ends usually 2 to 3 on one side and 2 to 6 on theother — the legs attaching to contact pads on the inverter board.

You will need to use a soldering gunand flux paste. I will now show you how to order a replacement screen for the specific laptop in question. To replace a cracked screen or what ever the issue… you can order the screen by the modelnumber of the laptop, but I do not recommend doing so and it is the Lazy way to replace it. Not only is it not correct, it could harm the laptop by possibly installing an incompatible screen.

The replacement screen part replacement number will almost always include the screens size in thenumber. Now, notice the TL and the A2 … this is very important that you replace with the sameexact numbers.

The mostcommon would be a faulty DC Jack. Though other things like a faulty GPU, or incorrectly seatedRAM, or a blown motherboard component, a bad battery, a damaged hard drive, a short in the acadapter, or even liquid damage can as well… So you see; it is not only the power area that can failrendering the laptop unable to power on and stay powered on it can be a variety of different issues,and it will be up to you to do process of elimination testing to rule out all other possible problemsand pinpoint the exact component causing the issue.

I will go ahead and give you a few scenarios and then resolve the issues for you by showingyou how to do process of elimination testing. Okay, Now for the process of elimination testing to determine the issue. You will want to first check all the easiest things that you can, the easiest parts to access get looked atfirst. S tart by removing the battery. Plug the AC Adapter in and try powering on… If the same,continue on…Next, remove the RAM cover on the underside of the laptop some RAM slots are also situated underthe keyboard on the top side of the Motherboard; you will determine the location and reseat bothsticks.

Then attempt to power back on after reseating the RAM. Liquid damage to the hard drive is a common reason this canhappen… Liquid damage to the internal components can cause power redirection where the contactpads join and when this occurs, it will tell the motherboard to shut down to prevent further damage. Ifthe laptop is still not powering on, continue with process of elimination testing… So you have now ruled out the Battery, the DC Jack, the RAM memory and the hard drive as beingthe causing issue.

Note here, that, you have ruled out the DC Jack simply because it is powering oninitially, then, shutting down. If the jack were faulty, you would get no power initially, or theshutdowns would be more sporadic and only occur when the cord or plug were moved slightly. While disassembling the laptop, you will be looking for certain things along the way as the root ofthe failure causing the laptop to not power up properly.

How to repair broken touchpad connector on motherboard

You will basically be looking at everything. So you will need to closely look at all parts and components now todetermine where the failure has occurred.

Your mindset now will be … looking for signs of liquid damage, looking for motherboard damage,looking for blown components. Blown components you say? Yes, and quite common though nothing like a Desktop computercomponent failure. The only similarity between a desktop motherboard and a laptop motherboardwhen relating board failures….

Is the failure of Capacitors. The failing of capacitors is probably themost common component that fails on either board.The Parts of a Personal Computer. If youneed to, take photos while you work to be able to remember assembly and reverse process. A lot of manufacturers of laptopmotherboards will apply the port contact pads but do not install the port due to specific laptop casespecs and the port not fitting certain laptop case configurations.

Power Button- Usually located just above the keyboard, some laptops will place the power button in differentareas, like the lid of the laptop, or the front of the laptop or its sides.

On average, you want to use at least a heat gun with switchablesettings… One that will produce temperature of to degrees. There are a wide range of motherboards to choose from. After pressing Customize go to the Languages tab and select the "Install files for complex script and right-to-left languages".

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